This summer I have been travelling through Norfolk and Suffolk, getting outdoors and enjoying the weather and trying to offset an all-time record calorie count (due to some determined eating and drinking) by participating in a variety of outdoor activities, mainly under the big skies of Norfolk and its Broads. Here's what I've been up to...
Wild Swimming
Is there anything better than cold water swimming in Britain's lakes, lochs and rivers, particularly during the summer when wimps like me can jump in without fear of freezing anything off?! Earlier this summer I was following in the footsteps of the Godfather of wild swimming Roger Deakin (whose seminal book Waterlog) started the off-piste swimming ball rolling. I jumped into his beloved Waveney at one of his favourite spots – Outney Meadow just outside Bungay – and did a few widths (happily the river is only a few yards wide at this point!). And last week I visited one of my own favourite swimming holes on the Bure in the
Norfolk Broads – Caen Meadow in Wroxham. Roger probably wouldn't have liked this place quite so much, as I'm by no means the only one to know about it, but the river is gorgeous at this point. Deep, not too cold, a swim here is never boring, watching the day boats and stand-up paddle boarders pass by. It's great to see people out enjoying the river!
Of course, visiting the Broads is more about getting on rather than in the water and so I took my Canadian canoe out on the Bure, paddling from Horning to
Salhouse Broad, where you can also swim, paddle about and pick up footpaths to a handful of local pubs. You can also paddle across the river to the national nature reserve at
Hoveton Great Broad, where a boardwalk takes you through a patch of wet woodland that feels like England's answer to a tropical rainforest – lush, fecund and throbbing with life. Make your way to a hide overlooking the water where you can spot herons, grebes, cormorants, and if you're lucky a bittern or a kingfisher.
For a non-lycra-wearing dilettante like me, Norfolk is also perfect cycling country – flat, peaceful, and while it is easy to find off-road routes, pedalling its quiet country lanes is a joy too. We pedalled to Winterton on Sea and then on to
Horsey and Waxham to stroll through the dunes and see one of Britain's largest grey seal colonies. At Waxham a couple of seals even joined us in the water, and seemed curious and keen to hang out for a while – it's the Norfolk equivalent of swimming with dolphins! The next day I made my way to Coltishall by the river for an excellent pub lunch at the
Rising Sun and afterwards followed the off-road bike path than runs from Hoveton to Aylsham, following the route of the diminutive
Bure Valley Railway – not exactly the Tour de France, but enough to earn another meal at the
Lodge at Salhouse.
One of my favourite places in Norfolk, and a place I return to again and again, is The Grove, just outside Cromer, which occupies a magical spot on a clifftop high above the beach (accessible by way of a path through the woods), in peaceful gardens which have an almost womb-like appeal. It's a really comfortable and welcoming hotel that's been in the same family for a couple of generations, and offers a bit of everything: hotel rooms in the main house or outbuildings in the garden, a series of self-catering cottages and a
choice of glamping between some very spacious yurts or a cosy shepherds hut. Whatever you choose, you get the benefit of all the hotel's facilities, which include a heated indoor swimming pool, the hotel's 2 AA-rosette restaurant and a giant tipi where they serve terrific pizzas and Norfolk tapas, much of it sourced from the hotel's sumptuous kitchen garden.
Back in the days before lycra was invented ( I think!),
Rowden Mill Station in Herefordshire was a working station on the Worcester to Bromyard line. It closed down back in the 1950s but was lucky enough to have been purchased by a railway enthusiast who spent a lot of time (and money) ensuring that the building was preserved. Now run by Cecilia Chavez-Brandon and Paul Kirwan, the result is a unique and very comfortable place to stay that looks pretty much as it did the day the last train pulled out of the station – families can stay in the booking office, couples can bunk up in comfort in the parcels office, and a permanently parked carriage means that real railway buffs can enjoy a retro stay on an actual train, too. I visited on a trip out west last month and I'm planning a trip back after they have collected their latest award!
This summer saw a brand new hotel open in Cornwall –
SeaSpace, a fab apartment hotel near Newquay, that has been completely renovated. It's a great place for families, dog owners, and, well, just about anyone really who wants to enjoy a stay on the North Cornwall coast. Right now, not only will you qualify for a chunky 25% discount if you sign up to their newsletter, they are also offering 3 for 2 offers on all stays from November 2024 onwards if you book by the end of August.