River Cottage Kitchen & Deli, Axminster
Trinity Square Axminster Devon EX13 5AN
Local food hero Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall may have been on the telly for the past two decades but he hasn't forgotten where it all started, and he opened the first River Cottage Canteen a few years ago in the town's old ballroom – an example of local resurgence if ever there was one. It specializes in all-day dining, serving everything from excellent breakfasts in the morning through healthy, hearty lunches to sumptuous dinners every evening, with tea and cakes and snacks squeezed into the spaces in between. The building has been beautifully converted, and provides a big airy space to enjoy HFW's delicious food – breakfast can be anything from a well-priced Full English to granola and yoghurt; lunch, too, is great value, ranging from smaller dishes like merguez lamb meatballs and crab on toast to saddleback pork hash with a fried egg. The dinner menu is similarly hearty and unpretentious, while at the same time being beautifully presented and cooked, with the emphasis on local produce – duck and lamb form nearby farms, Teignmouth mussels, local fish. They also do an excellent Sunday lunch, with various roasts on offer and including a number of veggie options. Hmmm, just writing about is making us hungry... get down there now, it really is one of the best places to eat in the area, at any time of day.
