Pennygate Lodge

This relaxed three-star guest house occupies a prime spot near the main ferry terminal on the Inner Hebridean isle of Mull. A grand whitewashed old dame, it reclines just back from the waterfront and enjoys sweeping views over the bay and the epic fold of surrounding hills.

The best way to check for the bountiful local porpoises and dolphins is to scan the waters from the comfy lounge through the old telescope. Rooms are simple, but breakfasts are a treat, with options including smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, French toast and bacon with maple syrup, and, of course, the full Scottish – ideal preparation for tackling the local peak, Dun da Gaoithe, a mighty 761m Corbett. Irrestibly friendly host Fran (you won’t need his second name) can point walkers in the right direction. Afterwards, if you still have the energy, Fran may well be around to talk you through his fine taste in Scottish music or point you towards the nefariously lively Craignure Inn across the road.