Brigands Inn

Whilst the hills have been opening up for a while as you approach Mallwyd from south or east, here they start getting distinctly steeper and pointier, for you are just within Snowdonia National Park. And one of Gwynedd’s finest coaching inns is almost the first sight you see: an impeccably-preserved 15th-century gem with whitewashed walls, buckled beams and open fires to warm any wayfarer’s heart, gazing out at the stunning scenery from neat, green lawns.

The inn is named for the notorious outlaws once roaming the region: in days gone by, guests would have been especially anxious to get safely to their rooms and they are likely to be as keen today, only now with the character of their digs as motivation! The exquisite beams and antique furniture not only grace common areas but also accommodation. Nine individually-designed rooms all have solid oak beds, some four-posters, and Egyptian cotton sheets, whilst bathrooms boast baths and either monsoon or separate walk-in showers. The general vibe? One of rustic refinement.

The food, too, is exactly what you covet after a day in the wild outdoors. The menu is pub classics done to exceptionally high standards: steaks are from grass-fed Hereford cattle and 28-day-aged; the salmon comes with poached egg and a delightful cider rarebit sauce. And even if the thought of a night in a beautiful centuries-old tavern with still prettier views of Snowdonia does not appeal, it is worth staying overnight for the breakfast alone: the chef is a former National Breakfast Awards winner.