Y Talbot

Narrow single-track lanes meander over the moors to Tregaron, a small village out on its own in the Cambrian Mountains of mid-Wales – a remote region that's famous for its dark skies and off-the-grid wilderness. As such, whether you’ve driven for miles or spent the day hiking, this handsome 400-year-old inn truly is a sight for sore eyes, a proper, cosy old inn with an excellent restaurant and and comfy rooms conveniently situated on Tregaron's main square. At any time of year, it's a terrific place to stay, and a good base for the Ceredigion coast and Cambrian mountains; arrive here on a dark winter's night feeling tired and hungry and you'll think you've died and gone to heaven.

Inside, the pub is as snug as can be, with slate floors, grey stone walls, blackened beams and a fire in the inglenook taking the chill off. When the sun shines, things spill out into the prettily terraced garden. Head chef Dafydd Watkin, who learned the ropes under Marco Pierre White, mans the stove in the 2 AA-rosette restaurant. The menu swings from well-executed pub classics to ingredient-driven dishes along the lines of Cardigan Bay crab or pork black pudding Scotch egg, and confit duck leg with leeks and mash or Welsh lamb or venison. They also do a decent burger and the cooked breakfasts are superb, with lots of good veggie options, too.

Given the historic look and feel of the Grade II-listed pub, the fresh, contemporary design of its 13 rooms is a surprise. Easy-on-the-eye creams and taupes dominate, with Welsh wool blankets adding pops of colour. Sash windows allow light to stream in, and views are either over the market square or garden. Bathrooms are slick and modern, most with walk-in showers, and tea, coffee and bottled water are provided. The superior and garden suites with sofa beds are big enough for families of four, and there is one ground-floor accessible room. They are also dog-friendly.

Finally you couldn't ask for a more bucolic or scenic place to stay than Tregaron – and the village gives easy access to both the nearby Cambrian mountains and visiting the beaches of Cardigan Bay. They are well set up for walkers and in particular cyclists, with plenty of bike storage, a drying room and bike repairs. It's also conveniently situated on the Cambrian way long-distance footpath, and the owners can advise on all manner of walking and cycle routes.