Top of the Woods Glamping

It’s easy to get lost at Top of the Woods. Not literally, thank goodness – owners Soo and Jon give you a map on arrival – but in a who-cares, do-as-you-please kind of way. The atmosphere is so laid-back it’s almost horizontal – Safari and Pioneer Lodges, Nature Domes and more, spread over 27 rolling acres, soothed, and charmed by the sights and sounds of myriad bird- and wildlife and the white-grey wisps of campfire smoke. In the adjoining Ffynone Wood – a vast 325 acres of forest – you might be lucky enough to spot a resident or two of the largest badger population in West Wales. You'll see rabbits, and maybe even an otter or two slipping into Afon Dulas, a peaceful stream that runs along the southern edge. A highlight for many is embarking on a self-guided trek through ancient woodland to the enchantingly named ‘secret waterfall’, where you can wild swim.

Top of the Woods is part of Penrallt Farm, a quaint 18th-century farmstead with a family of Kunekune pigs you can take cute selfies with, plus farm sheds that are home to barn owls, house martins, migrating swallows and a rare breed of bats (the farm hosts seven of the UK's 17 species). They've won sustainable tourism awards for the past seven years, and are a thoroughly eco-friendly nature haven. It's a perfect place to relax and enjoy slow living, with a variety of glamping styles to choose from – four fully furnished geodesic Nature Domes, four luxury Safari Lodges and nine spacious Pioneer Lodges situated in their own wildflower meadow surrounded by woodland. There's also 'Friends, Power & Parkup' – two extra large grass camping pitches suitable for cars and light campervans, with an electric hook-up (only available here). It's all pretty high-spec, but the feeling and style are very definitely back to nature – stargazing and guitars around the campfire fire – gadgets and noise, not so much.

Every glamping option has a wood-burning stove for heating, Welsh-made wool blankets, and a hot water bottle to keep you super cosy. They all have proper beds with good quality linen, lanterns, rugs, and cushions, plus a hammock, firepit and BBQ outside. The roomy boutique Safari Lodges sleep up to six and come complete with electricity, a locally crafted kitchen, their own private toilet and shower, and bespoke furniture and wooden flooring. The Nature Domes? Housing up to four, they have an en-suite enclosed camp kitchen with a two-ring gas hob and a cool box, share compost loos, and are nearest to the main courtyard where you'll find hot showers and flushing loos. Meanwhile, the Pioneer Camp features nine large lodge tents sleeping up to four, comprising two-bedroom compartments and a living area. For cooking and eating, use your wagon-style covered kitchen and dining space, equipped with cast-iron pans and Dutch ovens. What else? There are two hot shower cabins, compost toilets and drinking water stations.

The Dutch Barn serves as a covered picnic and meeting area for the whole site (which has regular camping as well), with tables, a hammock garden and phone-charging points. It's a handy place to mull over the mapped-out walking route that leads to the waterfall mentioned earlier. There's also a communal fridge, freezer, microwave and washing-up sinks. Perhaps more importantly, you can order Jonny’s pizza, made in a wood-fired oven (available on different days, depending on the time of year). Another hangout spot is Soo’s Shed, filled with tables and chairs, a sofa, foosball and a stash of board and card games for anyone to use. Oh, and every Saturday and Sunday, you can treat yourself to a hot farmhouse breakfast here or in the Dutch Barn, where you can also make the most of the free (if limited) WiFi (available in the courtyard, too). Keep your eye out for pop-up food nights, and remember that Clive, a mobile fishmonger, visits on Tuesdays during the school holidays. A small Welsh Gift shop sells items from local businesses, plus essentials like kindling, firelighters and marshmallows. For wider needs, we recommend heading to Boncath, Cilgerran or Cardigan.

There are any number of activities going on, from free Barn cinema nights, storytelling and wild foraging to bookable yoga, meditation and stargazing safaris. They also offer curated all-inclusive weekends (food, accommodation and experience) where you can "Find Your Wild” and have a nature adventure, such as Wild Gin, River Trek, SUP (stand-up paddleboard) or Coasteering. Or, simply wander the two-acre woodland of native trees – approximately 3500 – where one is planted for every booking. Come 2025, they're launching a woodland glade nature spa with a sauna, plunge pool and relaxation garden.

Finally, Top of the Woods enjoys an undeniably great location, right in the heart of Pembrokeshire, and next to the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, Pembrokeshire Coast Path, Ffynone Wood and Preseli Hills. The nearby Teifi Gorge is great for stand up paddleboarding, kayaking and canoeing, while other attractions in the vicinity include Cardigan Castle and the Welsh Wildlife Centre in the Teifi Marshes Nature Reserve, and several excellent wild beaches just 20 minutes away. Even with all that on your doorstep, you may spend more time on the site than you mean to, delving into the woodland in search of adventure, playing cricket in the meadows and picnicking in the sun. There's much to explore, and a lot of space to get lost in – why would you want to leave?