The Royal Hotel

The old market town of Kirkby Lonsdale couldn't be better placed for a tour of the picturesque corners of England's northwest, sitting right between the Lake District and Yorkshire Dales national parks, in the under-visited Lune Valley. And in the refurbished Royal Hotel, you have a very sympathetic base, right on the market square in a quaint, historic town much admired by Victorian artists and writers like Turner and Ruskin. The weekly market is still held right outside, while Kirkby is the sort of place that you can shop for artisan cheese, country casuals and ceramics in the morning and then stride out on footpaths in the afternoon alongside the serene River Lune.

Accommodation lies over three floors of the Georgian townhouse, and because of the age and layout of the building it means that no two are alike. They are all charming in their own way, but some have better views and more space than others, so it pays to have a good look at the website. A similar design aesthetic runs through all – there's a classy country feel throughout – but you get to choose, for example, between four-posters and carved bedsteads, corner bath or standalone slipper bath, exposed beams or a leather chaise longue. Coming for a romantic weekend getaway, choose the Deluxe Suite, with its three picture windows over town and a double-ended bath at the foot of the bed. All the rooms are en-suite, though the smaller doubles only have a shower. Some rooms are dog-friendly too.

It's rather lovely downstairs too in the public bar, heavy on the townhouse feel, and with comfy armchairs overlooking the market square. The food is less traditional than might be expected, with a Mediterranean slant – antipasti and seafood platters, pasta and pizzas, pies and grills, and a very popular Sunday lunch. The menu is served all day too, from noon until 9pm, so it's the sort of place you can drop into any time – or sink into an armchair with a glass of something cold and refreshing after a hearty walk in the countryside.